The Financial Times’ food critic Nicholas Lander clearly has a penchant for Catalan gastronomy, to which his column is dedicated with increasing frequency. Last weekend Lander reviewed the Villa Más restaurant in the Costa Brava bay of Sant Feliu de Guíxols, no more than an hour’s drive north of Barcelona. Villa Más is not as well known outside Spain as that jewel in the crown of Spanish, and indeed, world gastronomy, El Bulli, which sadly closed this summer, nor is it as well known as El ...